Dining on a Dime: Rice Noodle Soup at Ichiban Asian Cuisine

Have you ever thought to yourself, I wonder if I could satisfy my recommended daily water intake with soup? If yes, we’re kindred spirits. Straight water loses its appeal for me in the wintertime. Since my recent move to Vermont, I’ve been sipping my way through the cold weather with the help of warm liquids and bouillon cubes.

Dehydrated, I recently hustled into Burlington’s Ichiban Asian Cuisine in search of my broth of the day. The small restaurant replaced Maudite Poutine at 156 North Winooski Avenue when it opened in October 2024, and I was delighted by its nine soup categories, from tom yum to pickled mustard greens soup. Customizable with a choice of protein and noodle, many of the options meet, or fall a few dollars under, our Dining on a Dime series budget of $15.

As I was deciding among udon, ramen and rice noodles, owner Jason Lin jumped in to recommend — without hesitation — the rice noodles.

Lin, 41, later told me that he owns four Chittenden County restaurants: The others are Crispy Burger, next door to Ichiban; Volcano Asian Cuisine on North Avenue in Burlington; and JBC Rice Noodles & Ramen in Colchester. At JBC, he invested in a rice noodle-making machine because he believes homemade noodles are more tender and taste better. Although JBC is closed until April 1 due to staffing shortages, the machine is still operating.

The rice noodles are made from a simple dough using soaked grains of rice that are ground and mixed with wheat flour. “You can taste the rice,” Lin said. And I could. The generous serving of slightly chewy and slippery noodles never clumped and held its structure nicely, even as leftovers the next day.

I opted for the vegan mala broth ($12) for a spicy heat on an extra-cold day and chose tofu skins from the protein options, which also include beef, chicken and seafood. According to Lin, mala is a Chinese word that translates to “hot and numbing” and references Sichuan peppercorns. The broth also includes star anise, cumin seeds and sesame oil.

Lin said he and family members, some of whom help out at the restaurants, travel to New York or Boston every few weeks to source ingredients that aren’t readily available in Vermont, such as bulk bags of dried wood ear mushrooms.

While I certainly experienced the signature tingle of Sichuan peppercorn in the mala broth, I was surprised by the prominent mushroom flavor that soaked the chewy tofu skins. I learned that Ichiban’s vegan broth is made from shiitake mushroom paste, which gives it a uniquely savory touch. Atop the noodles, wood ear, enoki and white button mushrooms added more distinctive flavors and textures.

Beyond soup, one can easily eat for $15 at Ichiban with entrées such as stir-fried noodles and fried rice priced as low as $11. If you go with a friend, your budget will stretch to a shared appetizer, such as scallion pancakes ($5) or crab rangoon ($7.50). Both were golden, crisp and accompanied by a sweet-savory sauce that added a welcome tang to their oily crunch. For days when your wallet is a little fuller, multicourse hibachi meals start at $16.50.

In the summer, I might skip the appetizer and opt for a boba tea with fresh fruit purée (from $5). For now, Ichiban’s electric fireplace, complimentary green tea and range of affordable soup options will help keep me warm and hydrated through my first Vermont winter — without drying up my cash resources.

Dining on a Dime is a series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for around $15 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].