December 7, 2024

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How Egypt Fashion And Design Council Reclaims Cultural Heritage

How Egypt Fashion And Design Council Reclaims Cultural Heritage

Type “walk like” into a search engine and the first result will likely be a 1980’s pop classic. “Walk like an Egyptian.” The Pyramid at the Louvre. Elizabeth Taylor (or Katy Perry if you’re a Millennial) as Cleopatra. The Mummy franchise. Blockbuster exhibitions from San Francisco to Sydney. The field of Egyptology. Not many countries power a global industry devoted to their studies. The world has been enamored with Egyptian culture since time immemorial. In 2022, two brands took fashion diplomacy to unprecedented heights.

Dior Men staged a historic show at the iconic pyramids in Giza and Stefano Ricci turned the legendary Hatshepsut Temple stairway in Luxor into a timeless runway. However, the biggest fashion story out of Egypt is yet to come. It features local designers reclaiming their heritage on the world runway. As Egypt Fashion Week gears up for its second-ever season in November, Cairo’s emerging fashion ecosystem is capturing international attention.

Established in 2017, Egyptian Fashion & Design Council (EFDC) is tasked with overseeing and overhauling one of the world’s oldest fashion industries. The earliest surviving article of clothing made of woven plant fibers comes from Egypt. The Tarkhan Dress is estimated to be 5000 years old. Egyptian Cotton, a trademarked commodity, has been foundational in global textile history. Fashion roots are planted firmly in the Nile River delta. This makes the mission of the Council both exciting and daunting. How to modernize an ancient trade? How to protect wildly popular heritage? How to nurture fresh new talent in the land of beloved legends?

I spoke with Susan Sabet, the EFDC founding member and a BOF500 honoree as a publisher of Pashion and the editor-in-chief of Elle Egypt, the first international fashion title in the country.

What is the role of fashion in the current geopolitical context?

Susan Sabet: Fashion is about going with the times. Foremost, fashion is a form of highlighting one’s values, beliefs, and cultural background. It is a very powerful voice for addressing current issues and events. Both designers and consumers put their messages in their clothes. More and more, people demand products that respect climate sustainability, social justice, embrace gender fluidity, and so on. Fast or slow, fashion is a conversation worth having.

Business, education, technology, investment, and reputation. These are the five pillars of the EFDC mission. Is there a golden ratio of these elements to ensure success in fashion?

I wouldn’t say so. Education, of course, is the base. I don’t only mean learning the techniques of design and production, but also acquiring first-hand experience through internships with well-established brands to learn the business from A to Z. Such opportunities are not easy to find in Egypt. Most designers rush to start their own business immediately after graduation. And most of them are “a one-man show” which makes building a sustainable business and expansion very difficult. They can’t afford or find suitable partners to handle management, sales, PR, marketing, and so on. Over the years, we’ve learned that talent isn’t enough. A designer must work hard with a dedicated team, do research, have a solid business strategy, and go after every opportunity and door that opens. Because if they fail, we as the Council fail, their investors fail. It’s a team effort.

It’s a Catch 22. To break out in an emerging market, you need a lot of experience and the best people, but how can a local fashion upstart attract globally experienced professionals?

That brings us to investment, which hasn’t proven easy, but it’s not impossible either. Investors usually look for a big return. A new brand often relies on craftsmanship, which is something we encourage, as it allows to create a unique brand DNA. However, it may not be easy to turn that into a mass product that generates massive revenue. Similarly, most international retailers are still making up for big losses due to the pandemic, so their buying has become more selective. They tend to bet on brands that have performed well in past seasons, have dynamic social media following, and are less likely to experiment at the moment. Before looking at export markets, I generally advise designers to first fulfill the local demand, which in Egypt is huge and growing. At the Council we help to connect funders and retailers with the right candidates who understand fashion is a unique business proposition that should be worth someone’s time and money.

Egypt has a tremendous “brand recognition” as a country and a culture. However, it has often been appropriated to the point of caricature. How does EFDC both protect Egyptian heritage and combat cultural appropriation or stereotypes?

I don’t believe any culture belongs to one people. Travel and history are great sources of inspiration. Egyptian designers are also inspired by other civilizations: Roman Goddesses, Marie Antoinette, New York City, Japanese kimonos, Moroccan kaftans, it’s endless. We should be proud to see the likes of Dior, Elie Saab, Balmain, or Messika, to name a few, paying homage to Egypt in their wonderfully inspired creations. It is the best publicity a country can get. We encourage more designers to source our unique textiles and crafts. Producing for export elevates craftsmanship and pushes our artisans to excellence. I recently met the local craftsman who produces exquisite Khayamiya (fabric frescos) for Louis Barthelemy. They were proud of the collaboration. Of course, it goes without saying, the pay must be fair for the international market.

Dior at the pyramids, Stefano Ricci in Luxor. When could we expect Egyptian designers taking over the Louvre or Time Square?

As the Council we have exhibited our designers in Paris, London, and Vienna, where we were generously hosted by our ambassadors who open their beautiful residences for our exhibitions. The global buzz both Dior and Stefano Ricci created was enormous. Not many can compete with that! But for such an enormous buzz, the resources to stage such monumental events must be enormous too. I wish, of course, but Times Square won’t be in our budget for a while. That said, forging collaborations of international designers with Egyptian talents is something we aim for and encourage the fashion community to pursue with our full support.

EGYPT FASHION WEEK

Egyptian talent was on full display at the first edition of Egypt Fashion Week in 2023. On the one hand, coronavirus delayed the event by two years as the industry shifted into survival mode and international travel became complicated. On the other hand, the pandemic helped raise consumer appreciation for local consumption and slow fashion. Currently, the EFDC directory features 105 brands, many of which are made-to-order or capsule collection labels. Nearly 70 designers showcased their creations at the Museum of Agriculture, a perfectly symbolic location. The first museum of its kind in the world, it combined biology, science, sociology, economy and the arts into a holistic view on “perfect storm” conditions that make civilizations thrive. Among the breakout stars were several noteworthy names. Founded in 2012 by Ahmed Al-Saedi, Maison Saedi honors “the soft warrior woman.” Designer Farah Wali creates wearable art in the street couture aesthetic. Dalia Abbas and Dara Hassanein are a cool mother-daughter duo behind Rebel Cairo, a free-spirited brand with signature hand-decorated prints.

Meanwhile, Nadine Chamaa taps into a myriad of artisan practices as divergent as Mali indigo dye and Argentinian wool felting for her “plastic to fantastic” looks. Guests fell in love with handcrafted leather footwear by Bulga which made hustle and bustle days kinder on the wary fashionista feet. Since 1985, Mix and Match produces 100% locally sourced garments making comfort a socially responsible choice. Another example of impactful fashion entrepreneurship is Siwa Creations with wardrobe and décor products hand embroidered by the women of Siwa Oasis, a legendary outpost in the Great Sand Sea. The King Tut bag by Sabry Marouf won its category at the first Fashon Trust Arabia. It remains a masterclass in how tech-savvy craftsmanship can honor cultural heritage and capitalize on the latest marketing knowhow. However, it was the Reem Jano jewelry that stole the show at the inaugural EFW season. From golden winged bustiers to a collection of doves “whispering peace”, these were perfect accessories to our high-stakes zeitgeist.

What was the biggest lesson from the first season of Egypt Fashion Week?

Egypt has been trending for 5000 years! Every child worldwide learns our history in school and knows the Pyramids, King Tutankhamun, Nefertiti. So, in part, it is an “easy sell”; we were not surprised by the great response of industry players. Especially, given the MENA fashion boom. However, it was definitely a steep learning curve taking on such a big project. No local organizer had previous experience at such a level. The biggest takeaway would be a solid formula for a successful event. It proved to us that the concept of a well curated mix of runway shows, exhibitions, workshops and panel talks in the fields of education, design, craftsmanship, sustainability, production, retail and finance works, and it works wonders. Having so many accomplished professionals share their know-how was truly inspiring and encouraging. This opportunity to unite local, regional, and international stakeholders and fashion lovers justifies Egypt Fashion Week as a necessary platform with enormous potential.

So, is Cairo the next big fashion capital?

Let’s pull up a definition of fashion capital on Wikipedia – “a fashion capital is a city with major influence on the international fashion scene, from history, heritage, designers, trends, and styles, to manufacturing, innovation, and retailing of fashion products, including events such as fashion weeks, fashion council awards, and trade fairs that together generate significant economic output.” By that measure, it is impossible to compete with Paris, Milan, London, and New York. They each host multiple trade fairs with thousands of brands available to thousands of buyers, which is the core of the fashion business. That said, Egypt is the largest textile and apparel producer in Africa. With a population of 100 million people and nearly 15 million tourists, it is a vibrant market. This informs the starting point and core principles of our work at EFDC. We are not competing with other fashion capitals in the region. Each has its own angle. We proudly hosted Jordan Fashion Week during our first season and look forward to building more bridges. We aim that Egypt Fashion Week in Cairo secures a place of prestige and prominence on the international fashion calendar.


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