Visit Cambodia For Great Southeast Asian Food Without The Crowds

What comes to mind when you think of “great Southeast Asian food”? For many people, it will be Thailand’s national dish pad Thai, Vietnamese summer rolls, or perhaps even a place like colorful island Penang, frequently hyped as a foodie hotspot. It’s little coincidence that Thailand, Vietnam and Malaysia dominated Southeast Asian tourism last year; naturally their culinary clout has gained a worldwide reputation.

For a tasty trip without the crowds, however, it pays to look beyond the headline-grabbing dishes and destinations. I recently enjoyed a “real food adventure” in Cambodia with small-group tour company Intrepid, which notes, “Using pepper rather than chili to add spice, Cambodian cuisine is laden with fresh herbs, spices, rice, freshwater fish and condiments. While there are influences from French and Thai styles, Cambodian food has a distinct style and flavor…”

From creamy coconut-infused fish amok curry, steamed in banana leaves, to beef lok lak flavored with Kampot pepper—not to mention a thriving street-food scene—there’s plenty to tempt the taste buds in Cambodia. Whether you explore the country on a tour or independently, here are some of the destinations to watch out for…

Phnom Penh

Cambodia’s frenzied capital can initially seem off-putting. Dwindling pavements, a dearth of pedestrian crossings and roads full of whizzing motorbikes hinder walking around. Intense heat and humidity don’t help, plus visitor attractions are fairly spread out—albeit it’s easy to catch a tuk-tuk.

Give it a chance, however, and you’ll discover Phnom Penh’s charm: from terracotta-clad monks strolling below soaring golden spires at the Royal Palace to sepia-hued French colonial villas housing galleries and boutiques. It’s magical (and cooler) by night, too, with neon-soaked streets and illuminated boats twinkling along the riverfront.

Food-wise, the city has ample surprises up its sleeve too. Visit the striking Art Deco Central Market for treats such as banh chao crepes, where turmeric-tinted batter is stuffed with the likes of ground pork or fresh shrimp; wander along the Chaktomuk Walk Street, a riverfront promenade that’s pedestrianized from 6 p.m. on weekends and packed with street-food hawkers (alongside local crafts and music); or try Khmer specialties at upscale restaurants like Rosewood’s Brasserie Louis or Kravanh. Chic coffee shops and rooftop cocktail bars abound (I loved Khmer Funk), while acclaimed cooking classes like Banana reveal the secrets of Cambodian cuisine.

Kampot

With laidback vibes and French colonial architecture, Kampot is an attractive riverside city that’s ideal for wandering, supporting enterprises like Seeing Hands Massage and Epic Arts, or sipping a sunset cocktail with views across the nearby Bokor Range. However, it’s also a produce hotspot: especially famed for its pepper, whose cultivation was first described in the 13th century and reached its zenith under French rule. You can learn more about this coveted spice at La Plantation, a lush agritourism site just outside of Kampot, where options span tours and tastings to treats like Kampot pepper ice cream.

Kampot is also renowned for its durian, a tropical spiky fruit which—despite its pungent smell, often compared with smelly socks—is beloved for its sweet custardy taste. Try it if you dare; just avoid doing it in your hotel, as it’s understandably banned in many enclosed public spaces.

Sea salt and seafood are further staples in this region. Just along the coast from Kampot, past hectares of distinctive salt fields, is the town of Kep: celebrated for its sandy beach and crab market, located in stilted waterside shacks. While sustainability concerns might encourage you to skip the crab, the market sells plenty of produce beyond its namesake crustacean—from red snapper to squid and barramundi.

Battambang

Dotted with temples, and centered on a tree-lined pedestrianized riverfront, Battambang can feel more peaceful than Cambodia’s other big cities. Perhaps its two best-known sites are the bamboo train—offering open-air rides through the countryside on “norry” platforms once used to transport goods—and the daily spectacle at Bat Cave Sampov, from which millions of wrinkle-lipped free-tailed bats emerge to feed around sunset. But Battambang has a lesser-known “foodie” side too.

In fact, thanks to its strong street-food scene and sustainable initiatives, Battambang was designated a Creative City of Gastronomy by UNESCO in 2023. Battambang province is Cambodia’s agricultural heartland and, aside from indulging at the local markets, one of the best ways to experience its culinary heritage is getting into the countryside. Soksabike tours, for example, take visitors—along shady lanes, past fruit orchards and timbered houses—to see family producers of staples like rice paper and rice wine.

Siem Reap

While the complex is spectacular, there’s more to Siem Reap than Angkor—including APOPO’s landmine-sniffing rats and the heart-warming Phare Circus.

And yes, you guessed it, this buzzy city doesn’t lack fabulous food experiences either. Pull up a plastic chair and tuck into beef-skewer baguettes or caramelized bananas street-side; dine at creative venues like vegetarian restaurant Banllé, which grows fresh produce in its own gardens; or head to the nearby village of Preah Dak for a traditional breakfast of homemade num banh chok. Seeing how this popular Khmer noodle dish is still made, with wooden contraptions that have been used for centuries, is impressive.

Another (food-adjacent) recommendation? A cocktail class at Sombai, which makes liquors from exotic fruits. Mix up your own cocktails and say cheers to a very tasty trip.